McCall Wines has earned a reputation as the producer of Long Island’s finest pinot noir, but its merlot and merlot-based blend McCall Wines 2010 “Ben’s Blend” ($48) are just as deserving of attention. This blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdo tintially stands out for its restrained ripeness, with aromas of blackberry and blueberry staying just this side of jammy and mingling with notes of light toast and black pepper. Framed by grippy tannins that are approachable but also portend good cellaring potential, the mouth-filling palate is concentrated with ripe black and blue fruit, an earthy edge, subtle spice and…