Rose isn’t relegated to spring and summer duty in my house. We drink it year round and as long as its dry (or nearly so depending on how balanced any residual sugar is), we’re usually pretty happy. I don’t expect transcendence from rose. Maybe that’s wrong of me and I should expect more — at least on occasion — but I really just want rose to be balanced and food friendly.

But, on occasion I find rose that is just a bit more than that. Bedell Cellars 2011 “TASTE” Rose ($18) is one of those wines because of its texture, which straddles richness and weight with well-integrated, enlivening acidity.

A blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, it offers aromas of peach, passion fruit and strawberry. The palate is medium-bodied with citrusy acidity that gently slices through primary flavors of peach and red berry. Secondary flavors of white pepper, dried herbs and a saline edge bring complexity.

Mostly, I drink rose right out of the fridge, but I liked this one best just below room temperature.

Producer: Bedell Cellars
AVA: North Fork of Long Island
ABV: 11.8%
Price: $18*

(3.5 out of 5 | Very Good, Recommended to Outstanding and Delicious, Highly Recommended)